(N)ever changing world of Uniqlo special collections
based on my expectations and reality
I conceived this post back in August and have been rethinking it for the past 1.5 months. This extended timeline was driven by Uniqlo's collaborations release strategy, where they launched three limited collections simultaneously from August 24 to September 28.
I ventured to Milan on the launch day of each, not just to gather online information, but to experience the collections firsthand.
First up was the Uniqlo x Ines de la Fressange collaboration on August 24.
For my little marketing timelines fans, it’s worth noting that Uniqlo typically unveils special collections on Thursdays. H&M follows suit quite often, with Zara doing so half the time.
I've previously examined Uniqlo's spring collection with Ines de la Fressange in detail back in March, providing a valuable point of reference. In terms of SKU count, Uniqlo continues its trend, presenting 80 color models this time, just slightly less than the 81 in the spring collection. However, the similarities end here.
I don’t know what exactly prompted the Uniqlo merchandisers and designers to make this collection the way it turned out, but it turned out to be as Top-centric as possible (if there is such a word), with 60% of the items being tops (including blazers, knitwear, and shirts), leaving only 16% for bottoms.
That is, the tops-to-bottoms ratio is almost 3.7! Even in previous collection it was 3.3, which is also a lot, but 3.7!
It’s quite tricky, cause the more common standard in industry is from 1,7 to 2,5.
And look at the number of shirts and blouses! it just screams BACK-TO-OFFICE, although in terms of style it’s not exactly an office.
And I was also upset by the complete absence of outerwear in the autumn collection (although later I understood why, I’ll explain later).
So, stylistically, it's remarkably streamlined, featuring predominantly classical models, tapered trousers, and basic colors.
This stands in stark contrast to my yellow corduroy suit from the same line, which I purchased a couple of years ago and still receive compliments on due to its contemporary cut and color – elements notably missing in this collection.
But in general, knowing the target audience of this collaboration (I carefully observed beautiful women who shopped that day and they fully display the portrait of both Uniqlo and Ines’ lifestyle admirers), it is clear that the emphasis goes completely to the classical base.
So my expectations for innovative trends were reserved for the new +C collaboration with Clare Waight Keller, which had garnered significant attention. However, when I came for the launch on September 15, it took all the branded the banners and fresh flowers generously placed over that hall to remind me that this wasn't the second drop of Ines's collection but an entirely new collaboration.
While there was a generous selection of outerwear and even vegan shoes (a first for Uniqlo), blouses, pleated skirts, flowy dresses, and cardigans still dominated the collection.
I couldn't help but feel that Uniqlo was not using these collaborations to showcase unique models and colors different from its regular line but rather filling gaps in its existing assortment plan.
Though there were notable down jackets and long quilted coats with new fits and details for Uniqlo, I was particularly surprised by the scarcity of denim, given Uniqlo's production capabilities it was possible to make such a cool denim line, but at the end we got a collection of feminine additions to Uniqlo traditional staples.
So judging by the large promotional campaign and budget of the collection (a month later it still occupies the central halls of flagship stores, while the collab with Ines was clearly purchased in smaller quantities and was largely quickly sold out and removed from the hall), Uniqlo is betting specifically for such complementary collections, and not standalone innovative ones.
The core price range of $39.90 to $59.90 (with higher prices for outerwear and jackets) further supports this notion. Typically, limited collections are priced higher than regular assortments, but here, the prices are almost lower than Uniqlo's average fall offerings.
Against this background, I became even sadder at how small the Uniqlo U collection turned out to be (I already thought that it would be canceled at the end of the day, but it quietly launched on September 28) with literally a few small rails. Very few colors, very few new shapes, it seemed to me that this was the last launch of U, which I used to like very much!
I honestly tried to choose something for myself from each collaboration, but the realization that all this limited-edition-buzz was created for literally basic garments brought me back to Vinted.
So I found myself searching for cool, distinctive models from previous years’ collections, which I appreciated for their originality. And I know that when I really need I can calmly return to Uniqlo for my beloved cashmere and quilted vests.
And if we were to finish the story, I thought that you’d like to know what was sold out the fastest - from both the Ines collection and the +C collection, it would be the corduroy suit, which sold out on the first day (although more were later delivered), and the checkered trench coat from +U, which was a clear standout, and actually I’m happy with that.
Maybe this will serve as a good sign that there’s need to move further in this direction?
Baci x